textilesJuly 08, 2026

Ushikubi-tsumugi

Ushikubi Tsumugi is a tsumugi (pongee) textile produced mainly in the Shiramine area of Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture (formerly Shiramine Village), designated as a Traditional Craft Product by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry. The textile also holds a regional collective trademark (地域団体商標). For a broader survey of Japan's woven textile traditions, see Japanese Woven Textiles: The Complete Guide.

History

Production of Ushikubi Tsumugi is said to have begun by the late Heian period, making it one of the older regional silk weaving traditions in Japan. The name derives from the fact that the central area of present-day Shiramine, Hakusan City was known as "Ushikubi" until the early Meiji era. The textile originated from the practice of weaving with leftover double cocoons after superior cocoons were shipped out for raw silk and habutae (plain silk fabric) production. In Shiramine, the heavy snowfall caused mulberry trees to grow bent from the base, keeping them low and making leaf harvesting easier, a condition that historically promoted sericulture in the area and supplied the raw material from which Ushikubi Tsumugi developed.

Techniques & Production Process

The defining material of Ushikubi Tsumugi is the tama-mayu, or double cocoon — a cocoon in which two silkworms have spun together. Because two threads are complexly entangled inside, reeling a double cocoon by conventional means is difficult. Weavers of Shiramine spin thread directly from double cocoons using ancestral techniques, then use this spun thread as the weft. The warp is composed of ordinary silk thread. Dyeing may be carried out either by vegetable dyeing at the yarn stage before weaving, or by shipping the finished fabric as undyed white cloth to be dyed at a later stage. Both approaches are recognized within the tradition of Ushikubi Tsumugi production. Related silk pongee traditions produced elsewhere in Japan include Yuki-tsumugi: Silk Pongee from Ibaraki and Tochigi, Oshima-tsumugi: Silk Pongee from Kagoshima, and Honba Amami Oshima-tsumugi: Authentic Silk Pongee from Amami.

How to Identify Ushikubi Tsumugi

The most distinctive visual and tactile feature of Ushikubi Tsumugi is the presence of small knots distributed across the fabric surface. These knots form where multiple fibers from the double cocoon become tangled during spinning; rather than being removed, they remain in the woven cloth and are regarded as a characteristic feature of this textile. The fabric is also noted for its exceptional tensile strength — a property so pronounced that the textile is commonly referred to by the alternative name "Kuginuki Tsumugi" (nail-pulling pongee), reflecting the idea that the cloth is strong enough to pull out nails. Other Japanese silk textiles with distinctive surface textures include Shiozawa-tsumugi: Fine Silk from Niigata and Gujo-tsumugi: Silk Pongee from Gifu.

The Craft Today

Ushikubi Tsumugi continues to be produced in the Shiramine area of Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture, and retains its designation as a Traditional Craft Product under the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry. The craft also holds a regional collective trademark, providing formal recognition of its geographic origin. Ushikubi Tsumugi is among the textiles represented at Aoyama Square, a facility operated by the General Foundation for the Promotion of Traditional Craft Industries, located at 8-1-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Within Ishikawa Prefecture, another traditional woven textile is Noto Jofu: Fine Ramie from Ishikawa. Comparable regional silk weaving traditions from neighboring prefectures include Hida-tsumugi: Silk Pongee from Gifu and Tosa-tsumugi: Silk Pongee from Kochi.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "Ushikubi" mean and where does the name come from?

The name Ushikubi Tsumugi derives from the historical place name "Ushikubi," which referred to the central area of present-day Shiramine, Hakusan City, until the early Meiji era.

What is a tama-mayu and why is it significant to this textile?

A tama-mayu, or double cocoon, is a cocoon in which two silkworms have spun together. The complex entanglement of two threads inside makes conventional reeling difficult. Weavers of Shiramine spin thread directly from these double cocoons using ancestral techniques, and the resulting thread is used as the weft in Ushikubi Tsumugi.

Why is Ushikubi Tsumugi sometimes called Kuginuki Tsumugi?

Ushikubi Tsumugi is also known as Kuginuki Tsumugi, meaning "nail-pulling pongee," because the fabric is strong enough to pull out nails. This alternative name reflects the exceptional durability of the textile.

How can Ushikubi Tsumugi be identified visually?

The fabric is characterized by small knots distributed across its surface. These knots form where multiple fibers from the double cocoon become tangled during spinning and remain in the finished weave as a distinctive feature.

How is Ushikubi Tsumugi dyed?

Dyeing is carried out either by vegetable dyeing at the yarn stage before weaving, or by finishing the fabric as undyed white cloth that is subsequently shipped to be dyed. Both methods are part of the Ushikubi Tsumugi production tradition.