Bingo Kasuri

Bingo Kasuri

Bingo Kasuri (備後絣) is a kasuri (ikat) textile produced in the Shinichi to Ashida-cho area of Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture. It is considered one of Japan's three great kasuri textiles, alongside Iyo Kasuri and Kurume Kasuri. Bingo Kasuri is designated as a traditional craft of Hiroshima Prefecture.

History

The foundations of Bingo Kasuri lie in the agricultural history of the Fukuyama coastal area, where cotton cultivation was encouraged by Fukuyama Castle lord Mizuno Katsunari. The textile itself originated during the Bunkyu era of the late Edo period, when Tomita Kyusaburo, a resident of Shimouzuchi-ya-sako in Ashida-cho, Fukuyama City, devised the igeta (well-curb pattern) kasuri weave that became the origin of Bingo Kasuri. In its early period, the fabric was also referred to as "Bunkyu Kasuri" and was worn primarily as women's farm work clothing.

Following the lifting of clothing controls in 1951 (Showa 26), production expanded rapidly. By 1960 (Showa 35), annual output reached 3.3 million tan, at which point Bingo Kasuri accounted for approximately 70% of all domestic kasuri production. At its peak, more than 200 companies were involved in production, collectively producing approximately 3 million tan per year. Around 1952 (Showa 27), a folk song called "Bingo Kasuri Ondo" was created to promote regional unity and local industry development, and was danced at Susanoo Shrine in Tode, Shinichi-cho, Fukuyama City.

Production declined significantly in subsequent decades. By 2010 (Heisei 22), output had fallen to only 3,000 tan per year, produced by just two companies. Also in May 2010, two new employees were hired and trained under the national "Hometown Employment Regeneration Project," and the "Bingo Kasuri Ondo wo Tsunagu Kai" (Association to Pass on Bingo Kasuri Ondo) was formed in Shinichi-cho to transmit the folk song to the next generation. As of March 2011, Bingo Kasuri production is limited to cotton only, though silk and wool had been produced at earlier periods. The Bingo Kasuri Cooperative Association, which had been registered as a commissioned organization for Fukuyama City's "Traditional Craft Succession Project," dissolved at the end of fiscal year 2023, ending over 70 years of activity after its cooperative office was sold.

Techniques & Production Process

Bingo Kasuri employs the kasuri (ikat) technique, in which selected threads are resist-dyed before weaving to create patterns. The original igeta pattern was created by tying part of the warp threads with bamboo skin and then dyeing them, a method devised by Tomita Kyusaburo. Indigo dyeing is a defining feature of Bingo Kasuri; indigo has the additional practical effect of repelling insects and snakes, making the fabric well-suited to agricultural wear.

The fabric is made from hand-spun yarn, producing a thick cotton cloth that is durable and has excellent heat retention. One tan of Bingo Kasuri fabric measures more than 11 meters. Historically, the majority of the production process was carried out as a cottage industry, with products transported between home workshops by horse or truck.

Bingo Kasuri shares the ikat dyeing approach found in other Japanese regional textiles such as Yumihama Kasuri from Tottori Prefecture and Satsuma Kasuri from Kagoshima. For a broader overview of Japanese ikat and woven traditions, see the guide to Japanese Woven Textiles.

How to Identify Bingo Kasuri

Bingo Kasuri is identifiable by its cotton construction, indigo-dyed ground, and characteristic kasuri (ikat) patterning, most notably the igeta (well-curb) motif that was the original design innovation of the textile. The fabric has a thick hand resulting from hand-spun yarn and is noted for its durability and heat retention. Each tan of finished cloth measures more than 11 meters in length.

The Craft Today

Bingo Kasuri production has contracted sharply from its mid-twentieth-century peak. As of 2010, only two companies — Tachitaka Brothers Trading Company and Morita Textiles — remained active producers, with combined annual output of approximately 3,000 tan. In recent years, the membership of the Bingo Kasuri Cooperative had declined to three companies before the cooperative dissolved at the end of fiscal year 2023 after more than 70 years of operation.

The Bingo Kasuri Cooperative Association had been registered as a commissioned body for Fukuyama City's "Traditional Craft Succession Project," reflecting municipal efforts to sustain the craft. Materials and records relating to Bingo Kasuri's history are exhibited at the Shinichi Historical Folk Museum and the Ashina Cultural Property Center. The textile remains designated as a traditional craft of Hiroshima Prefecture.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "kasuri" mean in the context of Bingo Kasuri?

Kasuri is the Japanese term for ikat, a textile technique in which threads are selectively bound and dyed before weaving so that the dye-resist areas form a pattern in the finished cloth. In Bingo Kasuri, this traditionally involved tying warp threads with bamboo skin before indigo dyeing.

Who is credited with inventing Bingo Kasuri?

Tomita Kyusaburo, a resident of Shimouzuchi-ya-sako in Ashida-cho, Fukuyama City, is credited with devising the igeta (well-curb pattern) kasuri weave during the Bunkyu era of the late Edo period, which became the origin of Bingo Kasuri.

What is Bingo Kasuri made from?

Bingo Kasuri is made from cotton. While silk and wool versions were produced at earlier periods, as of March 2011 production is limited to cotton only. The fabric uses hand-spun yarn, resulting in a thick, durable cloth with good heat retention.

How much Bingo Kasuri is produced today compared to its peak?

At its peak in 1960, annual production reached approximately 3.3 million tan from more than 200 companies, representing about 70% of all domestic kasuri output. By 2010, production had fallen to approximately 3,000 tan per year from only two remaining producers.

Where can historical materials about Bingo Kasuri be viewed?

Materials and records relating to the history of Bingo Kasuri are exhibited at the Shinichi Historical Folk Museum and the Ashina Cultural Property Center, both located in the Fukuyama area of Hiroshima Prefecture.

Sources

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