dyeingJuly 21, 2026

Shinshu-tsumugi

Shinshu-tsumugi (信州紬) is a woven silk textile produced throughout Nagano Prefecture, designated as a Traditional Craft by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (then the Ministry of International Trade and Industry) on February 17, 1975. It is a collective name for several regional variants, including Matsumoto Tsumugi, Ueda Tsumugi, Iida Tsumugi, Ina Tsumugi, Ariake Tsumugi (Azumino Tsumugi), Yamamayu Tsumugi, Ashi Tsumugi, and Shike Tsumugi. The industry association for the craft is the Nagano Prefecture Textile Industry Cooperative (長野県織物工業組合).

History

In the early Edo period, domains across Japan promoted sericulture as an industrial policy. In Shinano (present-day Nagano Prefecture), sericulture was practiced throughout the region, and tsumugi woven from waste cocoons was produced in the same areas where the raw materials were grown. Because plants used for botanical dyeing grew abundantly in Shinano, dyeing techniques using plant-based dyes spread alongside sericulture. Shinshu-tsumugi was first shipped to Kyoto in August 1750 (Kan'en 3) and continued to be shipped almost every year until the Meiji era. Among the regional variants, Ueda Tsumugi appeared in literary works such as Ihara Saikaku's Nippon Eitaigura and reached its peak during the Kasei culture period, aided by the promotion of the Ueda Domain.

After the opening of Japan following the Ansei treaties, rising raw silk prices caused a decline in Shinshu-tsumugi, and until the mid-Showa era it was maintained only nominally for the purpose of technology preservation. In 1952, a plan to revive tsumugi weaving was made, and with promotion by the prefecture and local governments, active production spread throughout the entire prefecture.

Techniques & Production Process

Shinshu-tsumugi must be woven using pre-dyed plain weave, known as sakizome hira-ori. The warp thread must use raw silk (including wild silk), tama-ito (dupion silk), or hand-spun mawata thread, while the weft thread must use tama-ito or hand-spun mawata thread. The beating of the weft thread must be carried out using a hand-thrown shuttle (tenagehi). Where kasuri thread is used, the dyeing method must employ hand-binding (te-kukuri).

The full production process involves cocoon boiling and silk scouring, mawata making, hand-spinning, dyeing, the kasuri technique, and finally weaving. Botanical dyeing (kusa-ki-zome) using naturally growing plants is a characteristic feature of the craft. The traditional materials used are raw silk (including wild silk, known as yamamayu), tama-ito, and hand-spun mawata thread. For a broader overview of Japanese dyed textiles, including the range of techniques practiced across the country, see the related guide.

How to Identify Shinshu-tsumugi

Shinshu-tsumugi is characterized by a rich variety of raw materials, which distinguishes it from tsumugi produced in other regions. Patterns include stripes, checks, kasuri, combinations of these, and plain-like designs. One distinctive feature is the use of tensan-ito, thread spun from wild silkworm cocoons (yamamayu), which is not employed in other tsumugi production areas. The cloth also reflects botanical dyeing using plants native to Nagano, resulting in coloration derived from naturally occurring plant sources. Compared to other Japanese hand-painted silk dyed textiles, Shinshu-tsumugi is defined by its woven structure and the irregular texture imparted by dupion and hand-spun threads rather than surface painting or stencilling.

The Craft Today

Shinshu-tsumugi is produced across a wide area of Nagano Prefecture, spanning cities and towns including Nagano City, Matsumoto City, Ueda City, Okaya City, Iida City, Suzaka City, Komoro City, Komagane City, Shiojiri City, Saku City, Chikuma City, Tomi City, Azumino City, Sakuho Town, Shimosuwa Town, Takamori Town, Ikuzo Village, Matsukawa Village, Sakaki Town, and Sakae Village. According to a Heisei 14 survey, 17 companies were involved in production, employing a total of 105 workers. As of February 25, 2003, there were 27 registered Traditional Craft Artisans (Dentō Kōgeishi) certified in Shinshu-tsumugi. Products can be viewed at Dentou Kogei Aoyama Square, located at 8-1-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, which is operated by the General Foundation for the Promotion of Traditional Craft Industries and is open from 11:00 to 19:00, year-round except for the year-end and New Year period.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Shinshu-tsumugi?

Shinshu-tsumugi is a woven silk textile produced throughout Nagano Prefecture. It is a collective name for several regional variants, including Ueda Tsumugi, Matsumoto Tsumugi, Iida Tsumugi, and others. It was designated a Traditional Craft by Japan's Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry on February 17, 1975.

What materials are used in Shinshu-tsumugi?

The traditional materials are raw silk (including wild silk, or yamamayu), tama-ito (dupion silk), and hand-spun mawata thread. The warp must use raw silk, tama-ito, or hand-spun mawata thread, while the weft must use tama-ito or hand-spun mawata thread.

How is Shinshu-tsumugi dyed?

Shinshu-tsumugi uses botanical dyeing (kusa-ki-zome) with plants that grow naturally in the Shinano region. Where kasuri patterns are created, the thread must be dyed using hand-binding (te-kukuri). The cloth is woven from pre-dyed thread using the sakizome hira-ori method.

What patterns does Shinshu-tsumugi feature?

Patterns include stripes, checks, kasuri, combinations of these, and plain-like designs. The variety of raw materials, including the use of wild silkworm thread (tensan-ito) not found in other production areas, contributes to the range of textures and appearances in the finished cloth.

Where is Shinshu-tsumugi produced?

Production takes place across a wide area of Nagano Prefecture, spanning numerous cities, towns, and villages including Nagano City, Matsumoto City, Ueda City, Okaya City, Iida City, and Azumino City, among others. As of a Heisei 14 survey, 17 companies were engaged in production with 105 employees.